The magical mystery tour

The anticipated departure time of 0400 from Ramsgate was amended to 0900 (shame!) and we left in pleasant conditions. Skipper Ian’s concerns regarding clearing the harbour proved to be completely unfounded due to the skill of the crew (ahem). Sails were hoisted very shortly and the donkey was put to bed – at least for a while. David Green was first to take advantage of the then near perfect conditions by taking the helm. Tom Ward took over after a while, skillfully piloting us along the east Kent coastline with the white cliffs in sight for much of the morning and early afternoon. Tactfully, we allowed a cross-channel ferry priority as it shot into Dover but found the wind died away thereafter and had to resort to Dr Diesel’s donkey for a while.

This ‘while’ turned out to be something of an understatement since we were still motoring until 1430 the following day when we reached Portland. Sadly, all thoughts of enjoying the delights of a Michelin meal in Cherbourg went out of the window as the weather conditions deteriorated and we continued to bounce our way down the English Channel. This was more than compensated for by an excellent snack of sausage barms prepared by David Hodgson. Beachy Head came and went, when it was confirmed that as the weather was going to deteriorate we should get as many miles under our belt.

A watch rota was arranged for the night sailing of 2 hours on and 4 hours off, except for the Ian’s who did 3 hour turns, through the night. Tom was curious about the identity of our destination which continually changed - along with the weather conditions. All enjoyed the night sailing, especially the first part when the sky was clear. David H watched the moon dip below the horizon at about 0230. David G took over from Tom at 0500. Shortly afterwards we were caught in the wash (unavoidably) of a huge container-ship causing both ends of the dinghy to hit the water rather hard – though, thankfully, not at the same time. Other than that, the passage through the Solent was pleasantly quiet (note from Tom – this is obviously a euphemism from DH – the Solent was dense with activity – fortunately we didn’t hit anything, so perhaps that is what DH means by ‘quiet’) and DG had the pleasure of seeing the sun rising over the water. Motoring on, we passed The Needles to port heading for Weymouth or Portland. The weather worsened, though luckily without rain, and the seas became fairly rough.

Daylight rough weather is less bad than nighttime rough weather – it is easier to feel that you are still (just) in control of events – but does teach you the difference between a safe voyage (which I think we always had) and a comfortable voyage. Tenacity is definitely a safe vessel, but is not designed with either comfort or speed as the top priorities. Rounding one headland with a very strong tide against us, and sea conditions like the nautical equivalent of the sovereign debt markets, our faithful donkey was working hard to propel us at about 2 knots. But it kept going, we held tight, and the skipper looked suitably unconcerned throughout.

Portland Harbour was the biggest man-made harbour in the world at one time (maybe even now?) and is an impressive sight, especially at the end of a rough voyage. It was busy with yachts on trials for the 2012 Olympics, which (initially) concerned Tom, our helmsman as we approached. But skipper is made of sterner stuff and gave a fine display of ignoring them, on the grounds (I think) that we are much bigger than they are, and they can more easily dart around us than we can them. This may not be part of the official laws of the sea but seems to be the same logic for yachts keeping well clear of cross channel ferries, and works just as well.

Portland Marina has been well funded by Olympic monies and is an impressive facility. Plus – the staff are helpful, and the prices not outrageous. It really is an ideal place to spend a while, waiting for better weather. You can inspect Portland Castle, and brush up on your 16th century history. (The plum wine is recommended.)

By this stage in the trip, sleeping well on board is not a problem provided Tenacity is not in wild seas. The combination of tiredness and experience works wonders.